Dharshana Jayawardena (author of ‘Ghosts of the Deep’) interviews Rex I. De Silva.
DJ:
What motivated you to try SCUBA diving?
When did you dive first?
To
the best of my recollection, I started spearfishing and free-diving around
October 1956. I started SCUBA diving around 1958. As someone who spent a lot of
time in the sea from a young age, it was just natural that I eventually gravitated
to SCUBA diving.
DJ:
Did you have formal dive training?
If so what agency did you train in?
Who trained you?
No.
I read everything I could find on diving and taught myself to SCUBA dive. I
should mention that I was a good long-distance swimmer competing in the
two-mile sea swim on a couple of occasions. I was also an excellent free-diver
and could hold my breath for approximately three minutes and spear fish at
depths of up to 20 meters or so. Hence SCUBA diving actually came quite easily
and naturally to me. I consider that learning to SCUBA dive is easy as learning
to ride a bicycle. It was only in the mid-1960s that formal training and
certification began in the REEFCOMBERS and although I was a veteran by that
time I had myself certified both at Basic and Instructor levels. (Some divers,
like Rodney Jonklaas, Langston Pereira and others considered certification to
be a joke. As Rodney once put it “I don’t need a certificate to dive, all I
need is my mask and fins”. Rodney, it should be noted, completed around 30,000 dives in his long career). In late
1968, The Colombo Port Commission (CPC) tested, qualified and licensed me as a Commercial
Diver.
DJ:
What type of diving equipment did you use?
Originally
the American Healthways, Spanish Nemrod and US Divers Scuba equipment. This
usually meant 72 cu. ft. tanks and Mistral, Royal Aquamaster, Nemrod and Bunns twin
hose regulators. I also used 50 cu. ft. Draegar twin sets and Healthways 72 cu.
ft twin sets. I only used wet suits when the water was cold, at other times I
dived with rugby jersey and denim shorts as this gave me greater mobility and
freedom. Single-hose regulators made their appearance around 1960 and by the
late 1960s I changed over to these. The US Divers ‘Calypso’ regulator was a
favourite, but there were many other fine units manufactured by Healthways,
Nemrod, Scubapro etc. Nonetheless some of the old twin-hose units were
‘easy-breathing’ regulators apart from being more photogenic. I owned several spearguns including Cressi
Saetta and Cernias, Nemrod Cruchero and Fragatas etc. Several other spearguns
passed through my hands but these were the ones I used extensively. I also used
a variety of Surface-supplied breathing apparatus (aka ‘Hookah’) on commercial
operations.
One
thing I never used was a life jacket (LJ) or buoyancy compensator (BC). The
reason is in those days, a diver using these items was considered a “Wimp” and,
as Chief Diver for an underwater engineering organization, I would have been seen
as weak and insecure if I used one of these. This could very easily have
resulted in undermining my authority with the divers.
DJ:
What was the SCUBA diving situation (or "culture") those days? Whom did you dive with regularly?
The
only culture could be summed up by the rather cavalier attitude of “Do your own
thing, so long as you don’t kill yourself”. Most of us did it our own way;
rules did not exist and if they did, would most probably have been ignored. The
only rule the REEFCOMBERS had was “Spearfishing with breathing gear is strictly
prohibited”. In the old days a diver had to be self-reliant, and often had to
depend on himself in an emergency. This is because we dived alone much of the
time.
Notwithstanding
the last statement, I dived frequently with Rodney Jonklaas, Langston Pereira, Trevor
Ferdinands, Harry Logansmith and Joe Rajapakse. Nevertheless I really enjoyed
diving alone and often did so, including on many professional assignments where
an employer would not pay two divers for a job that could be done by one.
DJ:
What areas in Sri Lanka have you dived mostly? and why?
Everywhere,
with the exception of Jaffna. I dived regularly on the West coast from
approximately late October to April and on the East coast during the rest of
the year. This was when I was diving for myself. Nevertheless as a professional
I went wherever the “Company” sent me, which sometimes meant diving far out at sea
in monsoon conditions, and the Maldives. I also enjoyed spearfishing on the
west coast during the height of the southwest monsoon when, despite the rough
seas and poor visibility, I speared many a fine fish.
DJ:
What is your favorite place for diving?
What is the most beautiful place in Sri Lanka for diving
those days?
I
dived on the East coast, from Foul Point to Mullaitivu including Trincomalee
and also southwards at Kayankerni, Kalmunai and Komari. On the West and South
coasts, Dondra, Weligama, Galle, Dodanduwa, Akurala Reef, Induruwa, Panadura,
Colombo, Negombo and the Pearl Banks. Of course the most beautiful were the
Great and Little Basses reefs. Nevertheless
all the above were great at different times so I cannot rate them; If I have to
pick one then the Great Basses Reef is my all-time favourite.
DJ:
What was your most thrilling/exciting/memorable dive? why?
Probably
a dive with Langston Pereira on the Sunken Dock (Trincomalee) in the late 1950s.
We were at 90-100 feet down in fairly turbid water when we saw the largest Grouper
either of us had ever seen. It was a Giant Grouper (Promicrops lanceolatus) which was at least ten to twelve feet long
and probably weighed around 1,000 pounds. (Arthur C. Clarke, who saw it somewhat earlier, estimated its length at 15 feet). The true Giant Grouper is seldom seen
today, and the few seen seldom exceed 300 pounds or so.
DJ:
What is the most scariest/dangerous/challenging dive you have done?
As a
professional I was called upon to do many scary/dangerous/ challenging dives in
the course of diving operations. However, the scariest dive was probably when I
dived in 1974 with a Swiss diver in the Trincomalee Submarine Canyon. This was
a “spur-of-the-moment dive” which broke all the rules of commonsense. We did
not have decompression tables with us and I was wearing a rugby jersey and
denim shorts. My companion wore a wet jacket and swim trunks. Each of us used
72cu.ft. twin sets. He was keen to dive to 250 feet for a personal record. Hence,
although we were not properly equipped, we decided to give it a try. So we
dived, descending along the dropoff (wall) but at around 200 feet the water
became extremely cold and I started shivering badly, my companion in his wet
jacket fared no better. I developed a severe pain on the nape of my neck and
because of the shivering my regulator kept falling out of my mouth so I had to hold
it in place with my hands. We proceeded in this manner until my companion called
a halt at 240 feet as the cold had become unbearable and we were both shivering
uncontrollably. Anyway, having compared our depth gauges and confirmed the
depth we surfaced, after halting at 15 feet for an impromptu decompression
stop.
The
most unpleasant dives I performed were to recover the bodies of drowned
individuals. I did not relish this: the looks of absolute terror and agony often
frozen on the victims’ faces testified to the fact that drowning is a terrible way
to die.
DJ:
What is the deepest you have dived and where?
The
dive described (above) was my deepest dive. This dive to 240 feet was at the
time an unofficial SCUBA (compressed air) record for Sri Lanka.
DJ: What was the marine life those days? Have you seen a
progressive difference in the quality of marine life? Specially Sharks in Sri Lanka
Sri
Lankan seas were very rich in marine life; our reefs were well populated with
Spiny lobsters and a variety of reef and visiting pelagic fish. Sea shells were
present in numbers. Sadly marine life has declined drastically in the last few
decades. This is the results of overfishing with high-tech or illegal equipment.
The ornamental fish industry has also severely depleted populations of many
reef fish. In the 1950s to mid-1970s sharks were moderately plentiful although
we seldom saw them when SCUBA diving. We mainly saw sharks while spearfishing,
especially towards dusk. Most were common Whitetip Reefsharks with a few Grey
Reefsharks, Nurse and Zebra sharks and, especially on the East coast, Blacktip
Reefsharks. Occasionally we would encounter a pelagic shark, but not often. We
often saw sharks towards midday when we were spearfishing on the offshore mud
banks (“Muday”). We occasionally saw
large oceanic sharks there, which I was unable to identify at the time.
DJ:
What areas about diving/marine life interest you most?
My
primary interest lies in the natural history of sharks, nevertheless all
aspects of marine biology interest me. I am interested in symbiotic
relationships among marine organisms and am also fascinated by the oceanic
pelagic species and their natural history.
DJ:
You are an expert on Sharks
a) Why are you
fascinated by Sharks?
b) Have you had
any encounters worth talking about?
c) What is the
strangest shark you have seen?
(a) Sharks fascinate me because many are top predators, they
are beautiful and impressive and I don’t know what else, but they have a strong
appeal to me.
(b) Although in my diving career I would often accrue more than
200 diving days per year and, having seen more sharks than I could count, I
have never been attacked by one. Of course while spearfishing I have had fish
stolen from me by sharks at least once (possibly twice). None of my encounters
are worth talking about. I once swam with a fairly large tiger shark on the
Pearl Banks, but apart from regarding me with some interest it did not even try
to steal the fish I had speared and it was probably as apprehensive about me as
I was of it. Perhaps my most exciting encounter was in 1958 while spearfishing
around sunset when I swam with a very large Thresher shark in less than 40 feet
of water on Colombo’s first reef. I followed it for some minutes but the shark
was soon lost as it swam towards the depths. I also once dived in the midst of a school of
Scalloped Hammerheads during the Southwest monsoon. There is a possibility that
they were on migration. But no, I do not have any shark-bite scars (although I
have many other scars from ‘diving accidents’ including a half-century old stingray
scar on my left ankle and spear scars on my neck).
(c) I
suppose the Thresher is probably the strangest shark I have seen.
DJ:
You are also working on the History of Diving in Sri Lanka. Your current
website is comprehensive and an amazing resource on history a few people know.
Regarding this can you briefly comment on
a) Who
are the significant pioneers in diving on Diving in Sri Lanka.
This
is an easy one. (In alphabetical order) Vicky Athukorale, Tony Buxton, Rodney
Jonklaas, Hilmie (Mike) Khalid, Langston Pereira and Gerd von Dincklage. They
were all great.
b) Why did you think of starting the history web site?
I
was writing an article on Rodney Jonklaas, discoverer of the wreck of the Hermes
and conducted an internet search for more information on his discovery. I was
surprised to note that there was no mention of Rodney as the discoverer of the
wreck: instead there was some highly incorrect information. I resolved to
remedy the situation by starting a website which would provide authentic
information on the early history of diving in Sri Lanka.
DJ:
When was the last time you dived?
In
2013 at Bar Reef with SCUBA. I have also snorkeled and free-dived on numerous occasions since then.
DJ:
Do you miss diving today?
Yes
very much. My absence from diving is (hopefully) a temporary one and I hope to
resume it as soon as I can find the time and resources. Of course being in my late
70s I will probably not dive more than two or three days per year (let the 200
diving days per year remain history).
DJ:
What are you working on right now - including hobbies and other professions
Well,
I am technically retired but still teach a martial arts class. I write
incessantly and stargaze whenever the sky is clear. I enjoy astrophotography,
especially imaging the Sun. I am an inveterate reader and can get through two
to three books in a week. I have a great interest in natural history and like
to observe nature on land or sea whenever possible. I also try to keep fit with
fairly intense daily workouts. I have, by necessity, become a computer ‘Geek’. My
main interest however is my two beautiful granddaughters who I hope will, one
day, take after their “Grampa”.
DJ:
Can you mention any accolades, recognition you have received related to being a
pioneer diver of Sri Lanka, your work on Sharks.
I
have been declared an ‘International Legend of Diving’ by the ‘Legends of
Diving organization’. I believe that I am the only person in the Indian Ocean region
to be so honoured to date. I also received a ‘Marine Conservation Forum’ award
at the Marine Conservation Conference 2013, mainly for my work on sharks. In January
2017 the Colombo Mid-city Rotary Club awarded me their ‘Rotary Vocational
Service Award’ in recognition of my “Exemplary service and dedication in Shark
research and marine biology in Sri Lanka”.
DJ: During your diving career - have you made any discoveries?
Several;
but nothing major. I recorded 22 shark species which had not previously been documented
from Sri Lanka. This includes the very rare Pondicherry shark, which was
considered by IUCN to be ‘possibly extinct’.
DJ:
What would you consider to be your greatest achievements in your diving life?
Being
alive and kicking after more than (an estimated) 10,000 dives
DJ:
Can you talk about your shark book?
Gladly,
there have been numerous books on various classes of vertebrates including amphibians, reptiles, birds. Mammals etc., but there has never been a volume
dedicated exclusively to sharks. My book (The Sharks of Sri Lanka) attempts to
fill this void. I hope that the book will be both an identification guide as
well as a manual outlining the present knowledge of Sri Lankan sharks. I hope
that it will be useful to the educated layperson as well as to naturalists and
scientists. As most of the sharks described are also present in the Northern
Indian Ocean my book should also be useful to workers in the region.
DJ:
What do you think of Diving in Sri Lanka today and the future?
The
current diving situation is very different from what I was familiar with. Today
diving is well organized and disciplined with great emphasis being placed on training
and safety. Improved high-tech equipment is available, all of which makes
diving easier, more comfortable and relatively risk-free. One thing I mourn is
that knowledge of ‘Reefcraft’ or ‘Reef Lore’ has largely been lost (See below).
On a positive note, modern developments have made diving easily accessible to
the public, and the more divers there are, the greater will be the demands for
conservation of the marine environment. Yes, the modern generation of divers is
very conservation conscious and this is a very positive factor. I also admire
the vast amount of effort that has gone into discovering and documenting
shipwrecks; I believe that you (DJ) are the leading researcher here. One thing
I regret is that to dive today one has to be rather affluent, given the present
cost of boat-hire, equipment etc. (In the old days I would swim out to distant
reefs for diving. Today, in my twilight years, I would find this rather
difficult).
As
for the future; who knows? Human greediness combined with climate change,
global warming etc. does not bode well for the ocean. Anyway I hope that I am
wrong.
DJ: Does any in your family (children, grand children dive)?
I
have great hopes for my granddaughters, both of whom are budding surfers. My
elder granddaughter (10 years) shows the ability to become a diver, but who
knows?
DJ:
What is your message to the current generation of divers based on lessons
learnt from the past?
After
qualifying as a diver, learn to handle an outboard motor. Learn to dismantle
both stages of your regulator and put them back in proper operating condition.
Learn to service tank valves and fix faulty reserve valves. Very importantly;
train to become a good swimmer without any equipment. Once you can swim four or
five miles in the open sea without fins or mask, you will achieve a great deal
of self confidence. Remember that masks, fins etc., can be lost in rough water.
Learn to read weather signs, and to find a diving site using bearings (useful
when your GPS packs up). Learn the habits of fish and other marine fauna. Learn
to be self-reliant, never rely on a buddy to assist you, as he may have become
separated from you or be in trouble himself. When you reach the “Expert”
category, make a few deep dives alone at night. This will tell you more about
yourself than any diving test will. Finally: know your limitations.
DJ:
What should a good diver know about the sea?
A
good diver should be aware of what pioneer diver Vicky Athukorala called “Reefcraft”
or “Reef Lore”’: it is the marine equivalent of “Jungle Lore”. To cite just a
few example s of what I mean: the long low swell known as the ‘Eruwa’ brings seemingly calm but turbid
waters with very few fish and a stirred up seabed. On the west coast a strong
north current brings good visibility with pelagic and oceanic species on to the
reefs, whereas a south current means poor visibility and a dearth of fish. In
mid-April, when the sea gets rough Indian Mackerel will visit the reefs in vast
schools along with Queenfish which enter the reefs to breed. During midday many
sharks, jacks, spanish mackerel, wahoo and other pelagic species retire to the
mudbanks. A clinkling sound in the water sometimes heralds the appearance of
Queenfish. In turbid water the largest Estuary Perch (aka Barramundi) will be
close to the bottom. These are just a few samples of a vast subject, which I
hope to write up one day. I would like to see the modern generation of divers
pay more attention to the fascinating subject of Reefcraft; it would enhance
their appreciation of the Ocean and also help them plan their dives to greater
effect.
A
final word; Respect the ocean. Today’s friendly sea can kill you tomorrow.